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Escamps

Escamps

Nestled in a green setting about twenty kilometers south of Auxerre, the village of Escamps enchants with its authenticity and peaceful atmosphere. Surrounded by fields, forests, and the rolling landscapes typical of the Pays d’Othe, this small Burgundy village is a haven for lovers of nature, rural heritage, and tranquility. With its picturesque church, old stone farms, and hiking trails, Escamps invites visitors to discover a discreet yet captivating terroir where time seems to stand still.

The Origins of Escamps

The commune of Escamps lies atop a subsoil rich in sands and clays of varied colors. These two materials were long sought after, notably for the production of tiles and pottery. The village itself is located in a fertile valley on the right bank of the Ru de Baulche stream, which once powered several mills. Thanks to its agricultural resources, Escamps was a prosperous and important rural and craft-based parish.

During the medieval period, Escampas was directly linked to Auxerre, particularly to the powerful Abbey of Saint-Germain d’Auxerre, which owned the village church and provided its protection. In the 12th century, Abbot Jean de Joceval had wide defensive ditches dug around Escamps and its church. The Church of Saint George was then a site of local healing pilgrimage, established as early as the 8th century. During the Hundred Years’ War, additional fortifications were built in Escamps, and between 1407 and 1435, the village was the site of a major battle between the Armagnacs and the Burgundians.

 

Saint George’s Church

The name of the church is a highly popular dedication in Burgundy, from the Middle Ages through to the Renaissance. Saint George watches over Burgundian churches as he is regarded as the patron saint of knights—and of the region itself. Before the 10th century, Saint George’s Church belonged to the bishopric of Auxerre, before being given—along with ten other churches—to the Abbey of Saint-Germain by Bishop Heribert of Auxerre. Until the 17th century, the parish of Escamps was called Escamps-Saint-Germain, as it was part of the network of churches owned by the eponymous abbey.

The current church dates from the 13th–14th centuries and shows evidence of major reconstruction work over the centuries. After each episode of destruction due to war or pillaging—such as during the Hundred Years’ War—the village of Escamps had to rebuild and fortify itself to deter further attacks. The church has been listed as a Historic Monument since 1926, notably for its painted decorations.

This Gothic-style building was fortified in the 15th century and restored in the following centuries. It features a large wooden-vaulted nave and an apse choir with a flat chevet flanked by two semi-circular chapels. The wooden beams in the nave are decorated with Renaissance paintings, classified as historical heritage. The western portal is topped by a large lancet window, and the bell tower—located above the choir—mainly dates from the 14th century.

The current state of Saint George’s Church is quite alarming. In 2018, the building was even closed for safety reasons. The bell tower was reinforced in an emergency in 1996, but new structural weaknesses have since appeared, especially in the western façade. The church walls are cracked, and the nave vaults are sagging. The absence of proper gutters has caused water runoff that is undermining the foundations. Urgent stabilization work is now required to keep the church of Escamps standing.

The association “Redonner vie au patrimoine d’Escamps” (“Reviving the Heritage of Escamps”) was created, among other things, to help save the village church. It organizes cultural events to raise funds, which are used both to restore the building and to bring it back to life. Thanks to these efforts, the church of Escamps was able to reopen in 2023, following emergency restoration work carried out after its closure in 2018.

Several renovation projects are still planned, such as resurfacing the floor, creating wheelchair-accessible access (PRM), and restoring the hydraulic organ. The Heritage Foundation (Fondation du Patrimoine) has been contacted by both the association and the municipality of Escamps to support the ongoing preservation efforts.

The Castle of Avigneau

Avigneau now lies within the boundaries of the commune of Escamps, but it was once a medieval feudal domain, originally built as a motte-and-bailey fortress before becoming a barony. During the French Revolution, in 1806, Avigneau was incorporated into the municipality of Escamps. The name has evolved over the centuries, with earlier versions such as Avignellum or Avigneaul. These names likely derive from the local tradition of vine planting. In eastern Europe and particularly in Burgundy, this agricultural practice was known as Avignement.

The seigniorial estate of Avigneau is mentioned as early as the 12th century by the monks of the Saint-Germain Abbey in Auxerre. The noble families who occupied these lands built a château, still standing today along an ancient Roman road at the bottom of the valley. The estate played a key role in the Auxerrois region as both a defensive stronghold and a welcoming residence for French royalty.

The Château of Avigneau is a private Renaissance residence, partly listed as a Historic Monument since March 1988. This elegant property changed hands among several noble families of the Auxerrois. Although most of the structure dates from the Renaissance, it was extensively restored during the 17th and 18th centuries. King Francis I was received here in 1541, followed by Louis XIV in 1652, both welcomed with great ceremony by the lords of Avigneau.

The original fortified castle was built as early as the 9th century on a motte-and-bailey layout, with a rectangular plan surrounded by moats that remained in place until the 19th century. Of the four corner towers, two still stand today — one of which was later converted into a dovecote. The bridge spanning the moats still exists, consisting of three arches crossing the only surviving section of the ditch.

The current buildings were remodeled between the 16th and 18th centuries, with major renovations occurring in 1782. Entry to the former fortified castle is through a stone gateway dated 1733. Of the original seven buildings, three remain today, including the main residence (corps de logis), which dates from between the 15th and 17th centuries.

Sainte-Reine Chapel

The Sainte-Reine Chapel of Avigneau, now located within the commune of Escamps, was originally built as a refuge near the Roman road. This small building features a semicircular apse and a square bell turret covered with wooden shingles. Commemorative plaques on the wall recall the role of the Lords of Avigneau in its preservation—Maurice d’Avigneau notably restored the chapel and reopened it for worship in 1952.

The chapel is dedicated to Saint Reine, a young Gallic girl from the 3rd century who lived in what is now Côte-d’Or. She converted to Christianity and was martyred at the foot of Mont Auxois. Her story gave rise to many pilgrimage sites across the region. Her relics are preserved in a sarcophagus at Alise-Sainte-Reine, in a chapel dedicated to her memory.

The chapel appears to have been built beginning with the apse around the late 15th century and completed in the early 17th century. The single-nave vessel was constructed in two phases, as evidenced by structural joins visible on the exterior walls. Two windows on the north and south sides provide light to the interior. In 2001, the French Heritage Preservation Society (La Sauvegarde de l’Art Français) supported restoration work on the roof, framework, and masonry.